Leaf Lace Baby Sundress

Leaf lace baby sundress
Designed byTami Chapman

Size 2 toddler.
Materials: 2 balls Lion Brand Microspun, 70g , 168 yards, gauge - 20 sts x24 rows 4”x 4” in lace pattern.
U.S. size 5 knitting needles, U.S. size G crochet hook.
Notes and abbreviations:
K= knit; p= purl; yo= yarn over; sk2p= slip one stitch, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over; st(s)= stitch(es); ssk= slip one stitch, slip one stitch (both as to knit) place back on left needle knit both stitches through the back loop; k2tog= knit two stitches together; rep= repeat; rs= right side; ws= wrong side.　
　
　

Starting at bottom of skirt:
Cast on 123 sts, k one row.
Begin Leaf Lace Pattern:
Row 1: * k1, p2, k1, yo, k1, ssk, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, k1, ssk, ;1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Row 2: p1, k2, *p4, (k1, p2) 2 times, k1, p4, k2, ;1; repeat from * to end.
Row 3: * k1, p2, (k1, yo) 2 times, ssk, p1, k2tog, p1, ssk, p1, k2tog, (yo, k1) 2 times; rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Row 4: p1, k2, * p5, (k1, p1) 2 times, k1, p5, k2, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 5: * k1, p2, k1, yo, k3, yo, sk2p, p1, sk2p, yo, k3, yo, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Row 6: p1, k2, * p7, k1, p7, k2, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 7: * k1, p2, k1, yo, k5, yo, sk2p, yo, k5, yo, k1; rep from * to lst 3 sts, p2, k1.
Row 8: p1, k2, * p17, k2, p1; rep from * to end.
Knit rows 1-8 for pattern. Repeat rows 1-8 5 times more (6 repeats in all) end ws row.
Next row: (rs) decrease row- (k2, k2tog) across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (92 sts).
Next row: (ws) - (k2, p2) across.
Repeat last row for 2” end ws row.
Next row: Bind off 28 sts in ribbing, k 35, rib (k2, p2) 28 sts.
Next row: Bind off 28 sts in ribbing, p 34, k1; Keep 1st and last st in garter ( knit every row (36 sts).
Next row: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Next row: k1, purl to last st, k1.
Work these last 2 rows til 28 sts remain, end ws row.
Next: Work 4 rows even in stockinet st. (knit rs, purl ws). Keep 1st and last sts in garter.
　
Page 3;
Next row: (rs) k1, (yo, k2tog) to lst st, k1.
Next row: k1, purl to last st, k1.
Next row: Bind off all stitches, weave in ends, Block if necessary.
Sew center back seam taking care to match ribbing and lace.
Neck tie: Using size G crochet hook, make a slip st chain to desired lentgh to fit through eyelets and around neck.
Weave through eyelets.

That Mitten Pattern for Handspun

Hiya all,

Just lil ol' me here. Someone on Ravelry was wondering if there were a pattern for mittens using homespun worsted weight yarn (5-8 spi).



So here's the pattern for ya'll, it's not been test knitted so if there are any goofs let me know n I'll fix it for ya. I'll post some pics Thursday.



You will need about 3-4 oz of two ply (or singles if ya want or even chain plyed yarn) of worsted weight yarn. Or if you aren't a spinner just yet, you can use any worsted weight yarn. This will make two mittens for a size womens large (I have big hands for a chick).

You will also need size 5 double point knitting needles (this can easily be made with two circs or magic loop as it's based on two equal halves or sides.)



You will also be using the "Sherman Sock Method" for the top of the mitten.

Important abbreviations used in this pattern:
co= cast on
st(s)= stitch(es)
sl = slip
p= purl
k= knit
enc = encroachment sts (explained in pattern where they occur)
k2tog = knit next two stitches together as one.
BO = bind off or cast off
rnd = round
dpn(s)= double point needles.
some extra terms that sometimes are confusing:
knit even = knitting without decreases or increases, the stitch count remains the same for each round or row.
_ x's = however many times a certain action is repeated (usually in parentheses) example: "(k2tog, k1) 4x's" means to do what is in parentheses 4 times and them move on to the next set of instructions. in that line.

LEFT MITTEN:

With 2 dpn's cast on (co) 20 stitches, with either judy beckers magic caston (can be found at knitty.com) or simple backwards loop caston. Take one needle out of the cast on sts and with just the two dpn's

Purl across, turn

1: Sl 1, k 18, turn

2. Sl 1, p 17, turn

3. Sl 1, k 16, turn

4. Sl 1, p 15, turn

5. Sl 1, k 14, turn

6. Sl 1, p 13, turn

7. Sl 1, k 12, turn

8. Sl 1, p 11, turn

9. Sl 1, k 10, turn

10. Sl 1, p 9, turn

11. Sl 1, k 8, turn

(over the tip and going down the other side row)

12. Sl 1, p 6, sl next st, Purl encroachment st, turn

(encroachment sts are: pick up the loop around the bottom of the next st, knit the slipped st and the picked up or encroached sts together either purlwise or knitwise, depending on which side you are doing. Knit or purl through the front of the sts so that you don't have unsightly holes)

13. k7, sl 1, k encroachment sts, turn

14. p8, sl 1, p encroachment sts. turn

15. k9, sl 1, k enc. turn

16. p10,sl 1, p enc. turn

17. k 11, sl 1, k enc. turn

18. p12, sl 1, p enc. turn

19. k13, sl 1, k enc. turn

20. p14, sl 1, p enc turn

21. k 15, sl 1, k enc turn

22. p 16, sl 1, p enc turn

23 (last row of enc sts) sl 1, k 16, sl 1, k enc, sl 1. Do not turn.

You will now be working in the round.

Pick up on the cast on edge (if you used the magic caston you can just transfer 10 sts to one needle and then ten sts to another dpn.) 10 sts, with another needle pick up 10 more sts. You will have 20 sts on needle one and ten each on needles two and three.



Now work in rounds evenly (no increasing or decreasing) til the length of the mitten top reaches the crux of where your thumb meets your hand (or whomever you are knitting it for).



Work to end of round, Starting with the needle with 20 sts, BO 5 sts, knit around to end.

Next Round. At beginning of round, Cast on 10 stitches, Skip the 5 bound off sts, and knit next 15 sts left on needle 1. Then knit around.

Next round. Knit the 10 CO sts. Knit around. Knit 4 rounds even. (no shaping).

Next Round. K2tog (Knit two sts together), K6, K2tog, knit around remaining sts.
K 2 rounds even.
Next rnd. K2tog, k4, k2tog, k around.
Work 2 rnds even.
Next rnd. K1, k2tog, k around.
Knit 1 round even.
Either change to smaller needles (if you want to) or start k2,p2 ribbing for 2" Bind off in rib.

Make the RIGHT mitten the same way as for left except for the thumb gusset placement:
Right mitten: Work as for left mitten but on needle one, Bind off the last 5 sts on needle one, knit around.
Needle one again, k15, cast on 10 sts, skip the 5 bound off sts. and knit around. continue as for first mitten. On thumb gusset shaping, on 1st needle, k 15, k2tog, k6, k2tog, knit around, work 2 rounds even, on 1st needle, k 15, k2tog, k4, k2tog, knit around, work 2 rows even. Last round of shaping, work to last 3 sts on 1st needle, k2tog, k1, k around. follow direction for the rest of the mitten as written for the left mitten.

Thumbs:
Starting at the bound off stitches of thumb hole, with needle one pick up and knit 6 sts, make sure to pick up a stitch in each "corner" of the thumb hole so there won't be any gaps. These corner sts are part of the count given so don't pick up anymore than called for. Pick up 5 sts with needle two, then pick up 6 more sts with needle three. (17 sts), K 1 round even on thumb.
Next round. K2 tog at each corner of thumb hole, (15 sts or 5 sts on each needle). knit even for @ 1" or when knitting reaches the bottom of the thumbnail.
Start decrease for tip:
(k2, k2tog) 3x's, k1, k2tog. Knit one round even.
Next round. K2tog, around, ending with k1, break off end leaving at least 6" tail, thread through last round of sts twice (more secure that way) Finish off, weave in ends. Repeat for other mitten.

Block if necessary and follow washing directions for your particular yarn.

Just a little quick note on making other sizes or using other weights of yarn.
The Sherman Sock Method is easily adapted to other sizes of mittens, sox and yarn. Of course on the lighter weight yarns you would have to do more even rounds to compensate, perhapes 2 for every one even round in worsted.
If you are using sock yarn or sport weight yarn you would cast on half the amount of sts required for a full round. In our pattern the full round is 40 sts so half would be 20 sts.
If using sport weight you would cast on 26 sts.
If you use sock or fingering weight yarn you would cast on 30- 34 sts, depending on size of hand.
The next part of the magic of the Sherman Sock method is calculating the short rows and turning.
All you have to remember is:
-2
-2
-4
In our example you have 20 sts per half,
in the first short row you would -2 sts for your plain knit sts. So we have sl 1, and k18, turn. This is 20-2 = 18
Okay the next calculation would be for the turning row,
In our example it's: sl 1, k8, turn. sl 1, p6, p enc. turn. So beings we worked down to 8 sts then 8-2 =6.
On the last short rows we work til 20-4 or there are 16 purls between turns and enc. 20-4=16.
I know sort of confusing but it works and makes this very easy to adapt for sizes and weights of socks or mittens or whatever you want to use this particular technique for. (hat brims comes to mind).
As I said previously, I will post some pics for ya n all that.
Happy knitting, if you happen to find goofs, just let me know and I'll do my best to fix em.
Thanks.

Tami aka knittycakebaker

Pimp Daddy Felted Fuschia Fedora

Pimp Daddy Felted Fedora in Crochet
This pattern is crocheted for those of us who like to “git’er’done”!
Materials: 1 skein of “Brown Sheep’s” “Nature Spun” worsted weight 100% wool yarn 1 /2 skein S. Charles Ritratto, as a carry along for the head band area. You’ll use more or less depending on your stitch gauge. ( the Ritratto is optional).

Size I (9) crochet hook, one stitch marker or safety pin.

Gauge: It really doesn’t matter as this is gonna go into the washer anyway and get the heck shrunk out of it!

Abbreviations and stitches used in this pattern: ch= chain stitch; sc= single crochet; hdc= half double crochet; Rnd= round; st(s)= stitches; pm= place marker; slst=slip stitch; nxt = next.
This is an easy pattern for most crocheters. I am hoping that a lot of you find this pattern interesting and fun and maybe one of these glorious days we can all join together in a CAL (crochet a long, for all you newbies out there).

Now finally to what we have all been waiting for………….
Rnd 1:Ch3, join with a slip stitch to the first chain to make a ring, ch1, make 8 sc in ring, do not join rounds throughout until the last round of the hat. (8 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (16sc)
Rnd 3: (sc in nxt sc, 2 sc in next sc) around (24 sc)
Rnd 4: (sc in nxt 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around (32 sc)
Rnd 5: (sc in nxt 3 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) around (40 sc)
Rnd 6: (sc in nxt 4 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) around (48 sc)
Rnd 7: (sc in nxt 5 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) around (56 sc)
Rnd 8: (sc in nxt 6 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) around (64 sc)
Rnd 9: pm,*sc around (64 sc) Move marker up to the next row as you complete it.
Rnd 10: (sc in nxt 7 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) around (72 sc)
Rnd 11: Repeat round 9 from * (72 sc)
Rnd 12: (sc in nxt 8 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) around (80 sc)
Rnd 13: Repeat round 9 from *. (80 sc)
Rnd 14: (sc in nxt 9 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) around. (88 sc)
Rnd 15: Repeat round 9 from *. (88 sc)
Rnd 16: (sc in nxt 10 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) around. (96 sc)
Rnd 17: Repeat round 9 from * (96 sc)

Next round: pm and leave on this round for brim measurement reference. Hdc in each sc around, do not join. (96 sc)

Continue working hdc in each stitch until you have 6” from marker.
(optional) Next round: join the ritratto and continue workind hdc into each stitch for 2 more inches til there are 8” totalf from the marker. Do not join. If you leave out the ritratto continue on til the crown is a total of 8".

Next round: (hdc in nxt 11 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st) around. (104 sts)
Next round: hdc in each hdc around. (104 sts)
Next round: (hdc in nxt 12 sts, 2 hdc in nxt sts) around. (112 sts)
Next round: hdc in each hdc around. (112 sts).
Next round: (hdc in nxt 13 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st) around (120 sts)
Next 2 rounds: hdc in each hdc around. On last round join with slip stitch to the first hdc of round. Cut yarn, weave in ends.

Take the hat and put it into a zippered pillow case and in the washing machine with hot water and small load setting, with a pair of jeans or other non pilling item that is heavy weight. Wash anywhere from 5-20 minutes depending on the felt rate of the wool and the size you are wanting. When you get to the size you want, don’t drain the water from the washer but put it on the spin cycle and spin dry, take out of washer and fiddle with it till you get the desired shape you want. For a “pimp daddy” hat, pinch the front and crease, curl up the back of the brim but not the front. Make sure that the top or crown is flattened and not rounded. If you want to shape it some other way that would be just great.. Let sit and dry for 24 hours.

If you want to post pics to either Ravelry or your flickr account and then link them that would be totally kewl.

TWISTED RIB FINGERLESS GLUBS

Well guys, I did promise to post this on my blog n all that. Please bear with me as I will have to decipher what I wrote. (LOL)!!

I've been a busy knitter lately, what with Christmas n all that stuff goin on. Now there is my mom n dad's anniversary of course on Feb. 14th, need to figure something out for that and my mom's birthday on Feb. 6th. I did knit her a wonderful lacy scarf out of some mohair yarn which I have so magnanimously named "ROYGBIV" It's beautiful to say the least but on to what we are here for in the first place the aforementioned glubs (gloves, knucklers, gauntlets, etc......)

I will post a pic of it I promise ASAP (as soon as I find where I put em)... Damn, they're in Wyoming, arrrgggghhhh, guess I'll hafta make another pair, O well, at least I got it written down. WOOHOO!!!

K, are ya'll ready? Here we go....

TWISTED RIB FINGERLESS GLUBS

Please note that there are corrections on the second glub in red at the bottom of the page!!

Materials: any worsted weight yarn is good (4-5 sts per inch) I used good ol' Red Heart for this.
size US 5 double point needles (dpn) set of 4
one stitch marker

Abbreviations used in this pattern: K= knit; P= purl; yo= yarn over; twr= twisted rib; K2t-tbl= knit 2 together through the back loop (same slant as a slip, slip, knit (ssk) or slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (skp). x's = times; ws= wrong side; rs= right side.

Special instructions: skip first stitch, knit into the back loop of 2nd knit stitch, leave on left needle, knit regular into 1st knit stitch, slip both worked stitches off of left needle. Twisted rib stitch made.



Cast on 36 stitches (cast on of your choice, just make sure it's an elastic type so the cuff won't cut off your circulation on yer fingers and they turn blue n fall off.... just kidding!!!)

divide onto three double point needles thusly, 16, 10, 10 without twisting, join. Place a marker at the beginning of the needle with 16 stitches, this will be counted as the beginning of your rounds.

Round 1-3: K2, P2, around to marker

Round 4: (twisted rib row) skip 1st k stitch, k into back loop of 2nd k stitch, leave on left needle, knit regular into skipped knit stitch (1st k stitch),slip both worked stitches off left needle, (twist made), (p2, twr) 4 x's (5 twists altogether), p2, k2,ending with a p2, to marker. You will have one twr on needle 2, the rest are on needle one.

Round 5: (k1, yo, k1, p2) 5 x's, k2, p2, to marker

Round 6: (k3, p2,) 5 x's, k2, p2, to marker.

Round 7: (decrease round): (k2t-tbl, k1, p2) 5 x's, k2, p2, to marker.

Round 8: Repeat round 1

Repeat rounds 4-8 for pattern, ( 4 times for average sized hands, make longer or shorter depending on your preferences). End on round 4 of pattern.

Next round:(round 5 of pattern) Work across (keeping to established pattern) the twisted ribs on needles 1 and the twisted rib on needle 2, p2, Bind off 5 stitches, finish the round following the established k2, p2 ribbing (knit the knits, purl the purls) to marker.

Next round:(round 6 of pattern) Keeping in established pattern, (twisted ribs, k2,p2, etc) work to the bound off stitches, Cast on 5 stitches, work in established pattern to marker.

Next round:(round 7 of pattern) Work in established pattern to cast on stitches, work k2, p2, k1 into cast on stitches, continue in ribbing to marker.

Next round: Repeat round 8 of pattern

Continue repeating rounds 4-8 until there are 6 repeats of pattern altogether end on round 4 of pattern.

Next round: Work k2,p2, ribbing around for 1-2". Bind off Weave in ends.

Make second glub, same as first to thumb hole, work to needle 3, p2,k1, bind off 5, continue as established, work same as first glove following ribbing and stitch pattern, work to the bound off stitches, on needle 3, p2,k1, cast on 5 stitches, continue in pattern, continue to needle 3, p2,k1, in cast on stitches, k1,p2,k2, p last 2 stitches on needle 3. continue as for first glove. Bind off all stitches and weave in ends.

For more advanced knitters you can reverse the twist, on the second glub, on the twisted rib pattern to get a mirrored effect.

I would be more than happy to have someone test this out for me as I have been the only one so far to knit this. Let me know if there is anything that needs clarification.

Happy knitten ya'll!!!

Yeah, yeah, yeah, I'll get a picture posted as soon as I get the second set knitted.

Sunshine Halter Top

Well here it is...........finally. My first pattern on this here blog. Hope you like it. If there are any problems with it, shoot me an email and let me know where the confusing parts are.
I designed this for my girls (I do have 4 of them ya know). They are all young ladies who like those daring fashions. So here is one I designed just for those young at heart.
I will post pics as soon as I can. Have fun gettin knotty..............

SUNSHINE HALTER TOP

Materials Needed:
Lion Brand MicroSpun (any DK or light weight worsted yarn will do as long as it isn't fuzzy)
2 balls
Knitting needles; US size 5 Crochet Hook; US size G

Gauge: 23 rows x 17 stitches in lace pattern 4"x4" square

Special Notes and Abbreviations:
RS = Right side K2tog = Knit 2 stitches together
WS = Wrong side K2togtbl = Knit 2 stitches together through the back loop
StSt = Stockinette Stitch st(s) = stitch(es)
knit right side rows, purl wrong
side rows.
YO = yarn over k = knit p = purl

Starting at the Bottom of the "skirt"
Cast On 96 sts; k 2 rows.
Begin Lace Pattern:
Row 1: (RS) k across.
Row 2: k2, purls to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 3: k3, *(k2tog) 3x's, (yo, k1) 6x's, (k2tog) 3x's; Repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Repeat Rows 1-4 for patterns for 8". Keep first 2 and last 2 sts in Garter st (knit every row). End with WS row.

Beginning Bodice:
Next row: Decrease 24 sts evenly across (k2, k2tog) (72sts) at end of row Cast On 60 sts for the ties. (132 sts).
Next row: k 60 (these are the cast on sts), k2, p2 to end, cast on 60 sts. (192)
Next row: k 60, k2, p2 next 72 sts, (begin seed stitch) k1, p1 next 60 sts.
Next row: Seed stitch (k the p sts, and p the k sts) next 60 sts, k2, p2 next 72 sts, (start seed stitch)k1, p1 next 60 sts.
Next row: Seed st next 60 sts, k2, p2 next 72 sts, seed st next 60 sts.
Repeat this row until 1.5" of ribbing (k2, p2) End RS row.
Next row: Bind off 60 sts, purl 72 sts, seed st next 60 sts. (132)
Next row: Bind off 60 sts, k 72 sts. (72)
Next row: k2, p 68 sts, k2.
Next row: k2, k2tog, working in stst (stockinette st: knitting RS rows purling WS rows)to last 4 sts, k2togtbl, k2.
Next row: k2, p to last 2 sts, k2
Repeat these 2 rows 2x's more (66)
Next row: k across
Next row: k2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.
Next row: k2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, k2togtbl, k2.
Next row: k2, p to last 4 sts, k2.
Repeat last 4 rows until 50 sts remain, end WS row.
Next row (eyelet row): k3, (YO, k2tog), repeat to last 3 sts, k3.
Next row: k2, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Next row: Bind off, weave in ends and block item if necessary.

Tie for Neck:
Using crochet hook (size G), make a chain to length desired for tie. Weave through eyelets at the top.